Friday, February 25, 2011

Varanasi--Feb.25

I have managed to write something daily thus far even if I do not manage to post it until a few days later, for the 25th although I have not a lot to say I will keep the trend.
Hamid and I got into Varanasi a bit after 2am and had a short auto-rickshaw trip to his house. Having hardly slept on the train I was all too happy to see my bed. I had forgotten about the mosquitoes they, however, remember me all too well. It was like my first days in Varanasi all over again waking up with bite marks on my neck, face and hands--do not scratch.
The day was overcast and threatening to do worse; later living up to this threat with a brief thunderstorm around 6. Vargha had returned the day before with members of the Baha'i institute for development, of what I cannot remember--I only met them at dinner. They were here to decide if they will be able to have their next national meeting here in the summer. As Hamid was also entertaining these guests most of my day was spent catching up on things I had been putting off.
Dinner was a feast, dinner here is usually a feast and today was even more so' and as I believe I have mentioned in the past, saying you are full is not reason to stop eating. After dinner I went with Vargha to drop his guests at the train station and meet up with his friends to see where the night would take us.

Delhi/Varanasi--Feb. 24

Feb. 24th
The trip to Delhi is coming to a close, one more exporter to check out before a 13 hour train ride back to Varanasi. It was a good company to visit, actually the younger brother of Varun from Kashmir Arts. The quality was not quite up to his brother’s production h however the selection was entirely different at a better price so I spent my last 90 minutes in Delhi going through his stock. From there we head through traffic hang ups towards the train station. The past two days the shipping industry, I think, has been on strike. Yesterday 30,000 were walking the streets tying up traffic more than usual. We get to our train without the frantic run of Agra and settle in for our long journey.
The day’s story should end there as not a lot happens while traveling with a 60 year old on a train—this is not Before Sunrise or Sunset for that matter. We did accidentally sit in a first class cabin which eerily makes me feel like I am in a 3rd class cabin on the Titanic—just the ambiance right now; a rickety rocking bunk-bed filled cabin. It all feels from an age long before my time: the paint, fans, even the reading light I currently write by to the displeasure of the other occupants. I cannot and do not want to sleep right now it is around 11:30 and I have been on this train since before 1 with 2+ hours left. If I sleep I may screw up my sleep pattern again.
Back to the end of the story, we had setup in the empty first class cabin thinking we were in the proper place and only realizing the mistake when the ticket man came by. He gave Hamid two choices either we move or give him a bribe—you know which option we chose. So that is today’s story; where I am at listening to music writing and rocking back and forth on a train somewhere closer to Varanasi then Delhi. I still have much traveling to do, 12 days of work, three cities and multiple villages to visit.
Namaste

Delhi--Feb. 23

Up late and slow to get moving today, in Delhi we do head out into the chaotic traffic. We return to Overseas Carpets Limited for Hamid to finish some paper work—I get to sit in an empty office. I do not understand why Hamid insists on returning to places we have been to before to see a handful of new arrivals. I agreed to return briefly so Hamid could do his two minutes worth of work—we needed to cross town anyways. Once at the office he tries to convince me again to stay for lunch and look at this handful of new carpets. I decline as politely as I can be while still managing to hopefully get my point across. I want to go to as many places as possible, ideally places Angus would not go to or have the time to or have the time to see. At first this slow pace was nice—it let me think, understand and act. Now it is frustrating and I fear this frustration is starting to show. Today is the 23rd and I have been to 25 different warehouses and showrooms. I feel like this number should be a fair bit higher. One the days I have been out to various places I average around 2 ½ suppliers a day. There is a lot of unnecessary downtown.
We head from OCL to a nearby market for what is my breakfast and Hamid’s lunch as I was not prepared to wake up before 9:30 for the Hotel breakfast after yesterday’s late arrival. One of the few Indian meals I have in Indian is at an international sports bar, the same place Vargha, Farsal and myself tried to get a lunch pint at prior to our flight to Varanasi on Feb. 5th—seems like a long time ago.
We go from lunch to the Baha’I Lotus temple so Hamid can see his family one more time, and end up giving them a ride. I hop out at Ferozson Exports to check out their silk carpets stock for Angus and Hamid follows his family back to their hotels using OCL’s driver. I have only half been looking at silk carpets, just keeping an eye out for deals more than anything at this place I was there to see the good stuff. The most expensive piece was going for over $30000 U.S., and this was on the supplier’s end so you can imagine what we would have to sell it at; amazing pieces, some taking 5-6 weavers 2 years to make. I am to look; getting an idea of selections and prices. I will say I like them, whether or not we can do business is another thing; nice people. Too often suppliers are push, talk down to me and lie to my face in an obvious way. Out of the 26 places I have now visited there have been a handful of people I like and the group at Ferozson is amongst this group. The even personally drive me 90 minutes back to my hotel when I had offered to take the metro. Good group in a business filled with the opposite.

Delhi/Agra--Feb. 22

It was dark when I woke up, no surprise there it was after all 4:45am, I merely point it out to once again affirm my dislike of those small am numbers and waking up before the sun. I just fail at having a shower as the water will not have me and the taxi comes within minutes of my wake-up call I do get to shave with gel this morning. A nice treat that helps ease my lack of shower and the ungodly hours of the day. After those first 7 minutes it is out into the brisk pre-dawn air, a taxi and the train I traveled five days ago. The weather was cold and foggy I even started the day off with a scarf on.
I was woken up by one of the servers on the train asking for tips; well I was not actually asleep. My eyes were closed and sunglasses on so he could not have known and although I had intended to give a few Rupees anyways, it just strikes me as a strange approach. I have also been approached by beggars and asked for money and then given them some and asked for more. Now while I realize sometimes I unknowingly give too little what kind of person ask for more generosity? I was kicked out of a bar for a poorly calculated tip to a bartender who had not been serving me all night and the only service they gave me was taking 20 minutes to the bill for my tab. What goes through peoples’ minds sometimes? How can they possibly believe in instances of generosity if you confront someone about a voluntary donation it will help their cause?
The train stopped unexpectedly, I think someone was lacking a ticket and was thrown off. I cannot remember ever witnessing that before, on buses sure however not on a train and certainly not half an hour away from Agra’s train station at a random tiny station that we should not be stopped at. Turns out it is the fog and not a passenger at all, and because we are so delayed we have to keep stopping for other trains to fly by us. The train ends up being sporadically delayed so we reach Agra close to 11 instead of 8:20.
Ever delayed; once again in Agra I am met by the same driver from Bansal carpets who took me to the rooftop cafĂ© on Friday. Nice to see him again and he seems glad to see me again. Then again I did give him basically a days’ pay as a trip for all the driving and working late. I felt bad after we talked about wages and his five kids etc. Damn my guilt. The first stop is back to Bansal’s for tea and then onto the Taj Mahal—this time I am going in. I am asked to close my window—too much noise around. I like the noise it adds to the experience, with the window closed and the A.C. on I could be anywhere, well not anywhere, hopefully my point is taken.
Silence, there no light either, it appears Agra too is at the mercy of the power companies and they can turn the power off pretty much whenever they choose. As unexpectedly as the power disappears it returns. Let there be light, and the room clears. The atmosphere is that of a party in which the conversation hinges on everyone being present, throw off that balance and people being to panic. My go to move when I am tired of talking is to bring out my Moleskin journals, of which one has been filled, and try to remember what has all happened. I do not believe anyone quite knows what to do with me or how to treat me, I could make more of an effort to disarm the suppliers although I think it is to my advantage to keep them guessing and this is a business after all.
I should lead with the limited Hindi I know instead of repeating myself.
Pigeons seem to love to attack air conditioners.
One more shot of tea, my 5th glass today, and we head for the Taj. Four hours sleep and a 4 ½ hour train ride on top of the five day delay and I may just make it in. In and out; you can touch it, do not however step on the grass as the gardens are far more important. Even taking photos inside the tomb while prohibited the worst that happens is that they blow a whistle at you which could hurt your ears or worse yet your feelings. I kid, it is an impressive building, its’ history fascinating and the fact that you can touch it is rather amazing. Inside it is falling a bit into disrepair and people throw change onto the actual tomb while taking forbidden photo’s of an imitation one. It all seems backwards to me. Well worth the 750 rupee or about $17 if you prefer to get in, although for Indian’s it is only a dollar. Hamid is convinced that this is so expensive, which in a country where the minimum daily wage is around $2 does make sense. It is a UNESCO heritage sight and one of the most recognizable buildings in the world; I would pay more. The line to enter the Taj has changed directions, I guess the security guards/military police had a shift change and wanted to add their own personal flavour to the line. Not that the queue actually matters, locals will push their way to the front whenever the guards back is turn.
Another monkey wrench has been thrown into today’s plan. Hamid ran into his family on our way out. I am fairly sure that was his hope and one if not his only reason for this entirely unplanned return. He claimed it was to meet up with the supplier I did not see on Friday and so I could view the inside of the Taj Mahal and that is probably how he rationalized it,. I think I am more right and after a few compromises by me, a half hour longer with his family and a few more attempts by Hamid to get me to waste the afternoon we leave. I drew my line in the sand and while I wish I could have gone to the supplier without Hamid as to afford him more time with his family today that is simply impossible. I am a little proud I stood my ground on this.
First stop after I cut out the stalling tactics was Jane’s Carpets. I was there for a record setting 7 minutes. I think I Am better sleep deprived, certainly more to the point. The next stop was Diamond Carpets, which has had the most impressive store thus far. They do it for the tourist clearly and insist on denying it when I asked them about it which was perhaps in poor form on my part. I thought the place was neat, well lit with Greek columns and a few pieces of each part of production as you enter the store and in the office there are pictures of happy families purchasing carpets, it was a simple, harmless and friendly question I thought and then for no reason they lie about it—to my face. That does not start us off on a good footing. They did have a worth returning to selection, nothing I could pick without Angus’ seeing the carpets. Hamid is slow to get moving, he stays behind because the company actually owes him around $20000. The only way I have found is to just start leaving and hope he follows. Hope.
The good thing about dealing daily with the customers is I am with them when they go through the stacks and hear their critiques. As such when I go through stacks of carpets here I hear that criticism in the back of my head. The biggest difference between our sales strategy and the Indian supplier is the do not listen to the clients. No matter what you say or how many times you say no they will keep coming back trying to sell you something new. They assume that they know best and could care less what individual markets will bear—they just want carpets gone. I hate wasting time with the customers on thi8ngs they do not want. The Indian supplier will try to show you anything, and if you let them will show you everything do not let this happen. It is fun at first however if you want to accomplish anything you have to power through it.
Two more suppliers down and I learn our train will be at least 2 ½ hours late. It seems that the morning train and the evening train are the same. 11:10 no train yet, I should be back in my hotel room now instead I wait on a platform in Agra. The days are certainly interesting when I get up early.
I was asked an odd question, well not that odd it was just “are you from Denmark?” Denmark? I have never gotten that one before. I would never jump to assume someone to be Danish.

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Delhi--Feb.21

The wheezing of my unsolicited invited guest prevented my good night sleep so when 7:15am rolled around and it became clear Julian had not set his alarm or be leaving when I had said he needed to be gone by I took matters into my own hands and attempted to get his butt in gear. It took another hour before he leaves with one encore as he forgot all of the important things he would need for his rescheduled train. He misread his ticket and already missed the first train. He reminds me of Gene. Kristine's replacement teacher in Korea, I had much disdain for Gene. We part ways although I half expect another curtain call while I wait for Hamid's return. He was taking the same overnight train we took earlier in the week so I expect to see him between 8:30 and 9.
When 11 rolls around and I cannot reach him I wonder if he decided to remain in Varanasi another day without telling me. My room service does not show either and I am still waiting on my water from the night before. If I had actually received any services I would say it was terrible instead it was completely absent. 12:30 Hamid arrives informing me that we are switching hotels again. The East Inn, where I head been staying was awful anyways and as such this is much welcome news. At this point I still have no idea what is going to happen today and my weekend was almost more tiring then the weekdays have been.
17 days left.
The countdown does not mean I am wanting my trip to end--it is still sub-zero temperatures in Ottawa and I want it to warm-up a bit for me. The past couple days in Delhi have been on the chilly side. From the new hotel I head back to Kashmir Arts and I have no clue why; nobody tells me anything. I should ask. Apparently I am going back to Agra tomorrow as well. I just may get to see the inside of the Taj Mahal after all and visit that supplier who was out of town on Friday. Still no clue about today.
Hamid is figuring out his accounts at Kashmir Arts today, I am sitting there quietly--smiling and drinking coffee. At best I am there for apperances sake which seems silly to me and a waste of time. Please do not misunderstand as I am all for wasting time, not so much while working and even less so while traveling. I am unsure what to do; I did inquire as to my purpose there and did have a few minor questions asked of me that Hamid knew the answers to.
Hurry up and wait.
I started writing three weeks ago in Ottawa's Airport to the same effect and keep coming back to that theme. I was gifted my second diary/day planner today, this one I may keep for back home in an attempt to become more organized--your welcome friends. I will try my best not to double book myself in the future. Everyone has such great ideas and I want to do it all, can I help it if I am easily excited and occasionally forget what I have already said I would do?
Silence.
I will stop calling it awkward silences because for me anyways it is no longer awkward. The gentlemen have been welcoming to me;sure I brought them business yet long before they knew that we would come to an agreement they were gracious. I will call it a comfortable time of reflection although I am not happy wi9th my choice of wording.

I was invited out again by some random Indian guys around my age again; however since I am not feeling like drinks and I am getting up before sunrise tomorrow I will endeavor to convince them to meet me Wednesday for something touristy. My idea involves a historical sound and light show at the Red Fort here in Delhi.
Hamid is coming tomorrow with me to Agra this time--probably a good thing. I wonder how Hamid makes money--my guess is some kind of commission based system coupled with his limited carpet sales and starting next year his school. The man is trying to diversify. He forgot that he was meeting his family today and when they called at 5 wondering where he has been all day he asked if I mind if he disappears off to see them. I am kind of revealed as I will be able to get that night to myself that Sunday was suppose to be back. We part ways with me going for a walk and a hopeful early evening.

Delhi--Feb.20

Today I went out with Julian and the intention of sightseeing--he is from Mumbai and only in town for a couple days and offered to show me around. When walking around searching for a place to have lunch we befriended an American programmer who had a hour to kill before his flight and knew of a rooftop cafe near by that he had found last night so we headed there. Near the end of our meal a thunderstorm came upon us and instead of touring around we took shelter in a movie theater. I had wanted to catch a Bollywood movie in a packed theater anyways so the rainy day it seemed like a good use of the afternoon without wasting time that could be spent sightseeing. Julian decided instead that he wanted to watch Hollywood, and ended up picking a movie I wanted to see anyways so I went with it. 127 hours worth seeing except Julian enjoys talking and pointing out the obvious parts of films.
After the movie it was still pouring so I headed back to my hotel to grab a bite and Julian had to meet up with a co-worker to get some paper work signed. Back in my hotel room I am rejoined by Julian in time to watch Canada lose to Sri Lanka in cricket in the hotel lobby.

Sunday, February 20, 2011

Delhi--Feb. 19

A new day and a new plan. Hamid is going back to Varanasi tonight and returning Monday morning, which means I theoretically have a chance now to meet some people and go out socially. First I am moving into a hotel in West Delhi because the owner of the condo is having a lot more of his family coming to stay so I have been bumped out. I rather prefer this actually, gives me a break, which I realize is an odd thing to say. I have been living on and off alone for a while now and I need some Jamie time which I have not been getting in India. Plus I have run out of things to say temporarily.

Cricket! The World Cup of Cricket starts today. Canada is in it, any know that? I was going to meet Rana tonight and go out for drinks however he ended up working late and those plans became postponed for tomorrow instead I wandered around the area surrounding my hotel. One of the areas I stumbled upon I felt for certain if it was dark instead of dusk I would probably get stabbed and robbed if not worse. very sketchy slum that had hundreds of drunks drinking cheap spirits incredibly quickly. The rest of my exploration was uneventful aside from running across six lanes of traffic twice; which was once again a little unnerving, I swear Indian drivers just want to hit a foreigner.

Grabbed a pizza and head back to my room around 9 expecting an early night with a movie or two on my laptop. After the long day of yesterday it will be nice to relax with Vargha's extensive movie library, plus without Vargha or Hamid and their snoring around I may just get a good night sleep. This plan lasted about an hour before I received a call from Julian who just so happened to have VIP at a bar across town so I hoped into an auto to meet him and do our own little pub crawl.